Posts Tagged ‘car audio units’

9 July

CAR AUDIO SPEAKERS

By: Professor Apex

The car speakers you use will have the absolute say in how your system will sound. There are many different types of speakers available. A single speaker can be used to reproduce the full range of sounds but it is not ideal. If the speaker is too great it will have problems reproducing high frequencies which require rapid movement of the speaker. If it is too diminutive it will have problems reproducing low frequencies which require large amounts of air to be moved. Because a single speaker cannot reproduce all sounds accurately multiple speakers are used each of which imitates sound in the frequency range it was designed for. A speaker called a tweeter reproduces high frequencies generally above 2 kHz.In Car Audio Systems

Tweeters are small and lightweight so they can respond fast. Very little power is required for powering tweeters because they are very efficient. Woofers are the exact opposite because they usually require considerable amounts of power to really move air. Woofers are meant to produce sound at frequencies below 250 Hz and often just below 100 Hz (in the case of subwoofers). Because a woofer must move considerable amounts of air they are usually large with typical sizes of 10", 12", 15" and even 18"! On the other hand tweeters are usually very small ranging in size from 1/2" to 2" in size. Typically, tweeters larger than 1" in size cannot respond fast enough to sound good and are too directional. In between are midrange speakers which handle the frequencies between the woofers and tweeters. Further separation can be done but is usually unrequired and just complicates the crossover which must separate the full audio signal into multiple parts for each speaker.

Things to look for:
Power Handling: Just as with amplifiers, RMS or continuous power is pivotal here. Some manufacturers will assert very high power handling figures but they are usually for very short peaks only. Granted music is not continuous but the continuous power handling gives you a much better impression of how much power a speaker can really handle. For tweeters and midranges, power handling is not as critical since it does not take much power for them to play loudly. For woofers though a rough match should be made between the woofer and the amp driving it.

Sensitivity: This is a very important specification for a speaker. It gives you an idea of how loud a speaker will play given a certain input power. If a speaker is insensitive then it will require greater power to play at the same volume level than a speaker that is more sensitive. Figures between 85 dB and 95 dB at 1 watt RMS at 1 meter are regular. If you use anything outside of this range you may have trouble matching the output levels of the speakers relative to each other. .

Physical Size: You must pay attention to the size of the speakers you choose. Tweeters are very small but need to mounted where they fire nearly directly at you or they may not be heard correctly. Some tweeters have better off axis response than others. If you will not be on axis with the tweeter when you audition tweeters in a store listen to how their sound variates as you move around them to see if they will work in your car. Midranges should fit in the door or dash spaces provided or you will have to do some cutting or fabrication. In general the greater the woofer the larger the enclosure required to hold it. Some woofers are better optimized for modest enclosures than others (Kicker Solobaric, JL Audio W6 for example). Make sure you have enough room in your trunk or hatchback for the woofer. Kickpanels for midranges and tweeters or coaxials typically offer better imaging than locations in the door however the soundstage is sometimes lower than when you have the tweeters mounted high in the doors or on the A pillars.

How Do Speakers Work?
Moving Speaker Speakers are air pistons that move back (on the negative cycle of the signal) and forth (on the positive cycle), creating varied degrees of air pressure at different frequencies. The amplifier (either separate or built-in your radio), produces electrical impulses that change from positive and negative voltages (AC). This current reaches the voice coil inside the speaker, forming an electro-magnet that will either be repelled, or attracted by the fixed magnet at the bottom of the speaker. The voice coil is attached to the cone, moving it back and forth, creating sound. The surround (rubbery circle that joins top of the cone and metal basket) and the spider (usually yellow corrugated circle joining bottom of cone to magnet) make the cone return to its original position.

Speaker Sensitivity, measured in dB, is how loud a speaker plays (usually 1 Watt, 1 meter). A higher Sensitivity rating means that the speaker will play louder using the same power as a speaker with a lower rating.

The back and front parts of the speaker should be separated from each other. When the front of the cone is pushing air, the bottom is pulling air, creating a cancelling effect. Ideally each speaker should be in an enclosure. If you are mounting a speaker in a big hole, make certain you build a panel to isolate the front and back of the speaker (baffle).

Imaging, Staging and Directivity
Imaging - is being able to pick certain sounds from different places. The singer would usually be located towards the middle of the car, guitars, trumpets, and other instruments towards the sides of the car. If you scatter speakers all around the car your imaging would be very bad, since you would be producing the same sound at different places. If you have a system with flawless imaging, the sound should seem to come from different instruments and voices, not speakers.

Staging - is the ability of a system to "fool you" into feeling that everything (including bass) is in front of you. The sound should be identical to a stage in a concert, where the singer would be in the front center, and the rest of the instruments and background vocalists would be located to the left and right (but always on the front).

Good staging and imaging are not so easy to implement. It takes a lot experimenting with speaker location and direction.

Directivity - of sound is related to frequency. At higher frequencies it is simpler to pinpoint where the sound is coming from than lower frequencies. This can be used to our advantage in car stereo. Tweeters are the most important part of getting good staging. They should be aimed towards the middle of the car. A way to "bring" the bass to the front of the car is to fool our ears by overlapping frequencies played by midbases and subs, so that your midbases actually "pull" the bass to the front, since lower bass in not too directional. You should crossover your midbases as low as you can (without getting distortion). Then cut your subs at a bit higher frequency (preferably 60 HZ or less). This will mix the bass coming from the front and rear, making the bass seem to come from the front. Adding a center channel also improves staging, if it is set up correctly.

Types of Speakers
Coaxials - Coaxial speakers (or three-ways) are two (or more) speakers built-in the same frame. They are cheaper than separate woofer and tweeters and also easier to install. There is no need to worry about crossovers, since they are already built-in (you might still need to add a crossover to block bass if you are using high-power amplifiers). A disadvantage of coaxials is the lack of flexibility. For example, if the coaxial is all the way in the kick panel, or door panel aiming at your feet, you will not have good staging or imaging. You should usually consider coaxial speakers for the back and the front of the car, unless you only have one speaker hole and don't plan to cut any more holes in the car.

Separates - Separates consist of a tweeter and woofer, and [most of the time] come with an external crossover. The woofer is usually mounted in the factory hole in the door or kick panel. The tweeters can be mounted in different places. Typically they are installed towards the top front corner of the door panel, in the dash or the in the blank plastic piece on the top front side of the doors (where the mirror is on the outside). You would have to experiment with angle and location to achieve the best possible imaging and staging.

Horns - Horns are very good at directing sound and have high efficiencies. Horns are typically mounted under the dash. By doing this, difference in distance from left and right speakers are greatly reduced over conventional mounting locations. Since horns play mids and highs, tweeters are not needed. Horns cost more than conventional speakers and require customization. Horns are not for everyone though. It is not easy to properly setup a set of horns.

Midbases - Midbases are usually 5, 6 or 8 inch speakers that are designed to go lower in frequency and are part of a three way system with a mid and tweeter. Midbases are usually mounted in the doors.

Subwoofers - Subwoofers add lower frequencies to the system. They have to be enclosed in a box, with the exception of free air subwoofers, which use the trunk as an enclosure. There are many different types of boxes and implementations discussed in the "subwoofers" section.

Car Speaker Mounting Locations
Front Speakers - The best place to mount speakers in the front, in custom kick panels. If this is impossible, try to point the speakers towards the center of the car, and try to minimize the distance between the right and left speakers to your ears. Custom kick panels are usually built from fiberglass or molded plastic, and are available from some manufacturers .

Rear Speakers - Rear speakers should give a sense of space to the music, but not overpower the front speakers. You should be able to barely hear the rear speakers. Most high end systems don’t have rear speakers. Tweeters are not essential for the rear, a set of coaxials will work well for rear fill.

Center Channels - Center channels consist of a midrange speaker (3 or 4 inch) mounted in the middle of the dash (usually) on the top. Center channels play a mono (Left + Right) signal between 350 - 500 and 3500 Hertz (voice range). The need of the center channel is to raise the sound stage, by causing the sensation of the singers "being" in the front of the car, and not in the door panels. Center channels are hard to implement.

Sizes and Shapes
There are many speaker sizes ranging from 1-inch tweeters to 18-inch (or bigger) subwoofers. A smaller speaker will reproduce higher frequencies better than a bigger one.

Do round speakers sound superior than oval-shaped speakers (i.e. 6x9's)? The answer is yes for most practical purposes. A round cone is more rigid than an oval-shaped one, so at higher levels, an oval-shaped speaker will distort more. The reason why there are oval-shaped speakers is because of rear deck space considerations by manufacturers. An advantage of a 6x9 speaker over a 6-inch speaker is that it has a bigger area, so it will move higher air volume, producing more bass.

Power Considerations
Most people think that if they use a 50 watt per channel amplifier on their factory speakers, the speakers will be damaged. This may be true if the speakers do not have crossovers blocking off frequencies speakers were not designed to play. What destroys speakers is distortion. A high power amplifier allows the volume in the system to be higher, while the volume control on the radio is down in the range where no distortion is present. It is better to have more power than what you need to get cleaner sound.

Article source: www.articlesnatch.com

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11 June

CAR AUDIO SYSTEMHEAD UNITS

By: Muna Wanjiru

Head Units Overview

Car Audio SystemIn a perfect world, your head unit would be used to provide a signal to your amplifiers that is line level and you would not use its internal amplifiers (if any). They typically do not have the power and strength to drive speakers both loudly and cleanly. The line level signal is cleaner than the speaker level outputs on the head unit because it is does not go through the internal amplifiers in the head unit. That being said there are situations where you would use the head unit's internal power. One situation is to save money and the other situation is when you are building a system where the benefits of an amp are not important to you.

No head unit generallyhas more than about 60watts of total output power because more would require a real DC-DC power supply (which does not fit in a head unit easily). Using the head unit power can be a temporary solution till a separate amplifier can be purchased, just make sure you do not try to power any subwoofers or insensitive component sets with the head unit's built in power.

Note about using factory head units: Many people ask me about using the factory head unit that came with their car with external aftermarket amps. Typically you cannot get a clean signal from the head unit because factory heads do not have line level (RCA) pre-amp outputs to drive an amp. You can use a speaker level to line level converter but the sound is still going through the factory head's internal amps. Some are willing to sacrifice some sound quality in order to keep their factory head.

Things to look for:
Usability: Your head unit is the part of the car stereo that you interact with most so it is important to get one that "feels" comfortable to you. Always look at a head unit in a store display and use it for awhile. Try to flip through radio stations and tracks on a CD to see if it is quick and easy. If you have problems with small buttons, imagine what it will be like when you are driving! Models fall in the same price range, so usability is key deciding factor.

Power: Even though I just said not to use the built-in power of a head unit I know sometimes it is necessary. Bear in mind that the power specifications given by most manufacturers for head units are not accurate. They often use terms like "music power" or "peak power" which have no real meaning because there is no standard definition of those terms. If the power is quoted in "RMS" terms then it is usually correct. However, there is still one other place of misconception. Often manufacturers will quote power as "30watts x 4 RMS". The "RMS" seems to mean it is a true indication of power but they are implying that all 4 channels can produce 30watts rms AT THE SAME TIME. With a head unit, this is almost always not true. Because of the small power supplies in head units they can rarely output more than 15-60 watts TOTAL. This means that the power to each channel at maximum loading would only be 1/4 of that total. Some manufacturers are better than others about giving valid specifications and a few models are available with sophisticated power supplies which have higher power output but they are VERY expensive. If you're paying less than $800 for a head unit (and most of us are!) then your head unit will not put out much power. I have written a more comprehensive explanation of power amplifier specs as well. Speakers which are not producing bass do not draw nearly as much power so you can get away with using the head unit to power them but use passive high pass crossovers (bass blockers) and they will play even louder and cleaner. Bear in mind that the distortion may be higher from the head unit than an external amp however.

Cassette vs. CD: This choice is mostly a matter of preference. If you do not have many cassettes then an in-dash CD player is ideal for you. If you need the capability to listen to cassettes and CDs then a cassette head unit with changer controls should be sufficient. Be aware that many in-dash CD head units can control a CD changer as well so you can use both. An in-dash CD is good for changing discs quickly while on the road. Because of size of most CD changers they are usually mounted in the trunk or under the seats although there are some newer models which are small enough to fit in glove compartments. Under the seats or in the trunk are not easy places to get to while you're driving! (Who has cassettes anymore?)

Theft Protection: Detachable faces are the most general theft prevention scheme in head units today. There are two types, fully detachable and partially detachable. With a fully detachable face all the controls on the front come off leaving behind a blank panel, whereas a partially detachable face leaves some features on the head unit but the head unit is still useless without the face. Fully detachable faces are bigger to carry around than partially detachable ones but leave nothing behind to be seen. Another option is Eclipse's ESN system. With these head units when you first apply power to them you must supply a CD which the unit remembers as the "reference" CD. Thereafter if the unit ever loses power you must insert the "reference" CD before it will work again. Only you know what the "reference CD" is so the head unit is useless to a thief. Eclipse also tracks the units they repair. More than once a stolen head unit was returned to them for service because it was not working. Upon verifying the head unit was stolen they can catch the criminal as the person who returned the stolen head unit for service. A new innovation from Kenwood flips the face around when you turn off the power so the thief can't see the head unit. I think it would work even better if the face then went back into the head unit, giving the appearance that the unit is a detachable face head unit with its face removed.

Pre-amp outputs: These are must for any serious head unit. These outputs enable you to run an amplifier directly without theneed for any conversion. This is the cleanest output of the head unit. A few units have multiple outputs and sometimes ones that are crossed over. Look for the amount and type that you need for your system but keep in mind future expansion. One is sufficient but having two allow you fade, or adjust the levels of multiple amplifiers right from the head unit. Some head units now offer 4 volt outputs instead of the usual 1-2 volts. This can be very useful since cars have a lot of electrical noise in them. The 4 volt output is less susceptible to noise, however, you must be certain that the amplifier or crossover being connected to the output can handle 4 volts or you will not be able to use the extra voltage. If your head unit does not have pre-amp level (RCA type) outputs you can buy an adapter which will convert your speaker level outputs to line level.

Other features: There are many other minor differences in features between head units. Choose the one that appeals to you most. Switch able illumination is ideal if you want the head unit's display to match the other instrumentation in your car. Dolby Noise reduction and full logic tape controls are nice as well. A remote control is useful if you have use for it. A remote control mounted in the steering wheel can be very convenient though. Some CD heads come with a buffer to reduce effects from bumps. This can be helpful but in my experience if you mount the head unit tightly it will not skip much anyway and using the anti-skip buffer can have a slight negative effect on sound quality because of the way the buffer is implemented

Pre-Amp and output voltage
Pre amp is typically the control center. Your volume control, tone controls, EQ (if any) and source switching is usually at your pre-amp. The Pre-Amp is designed to be a very clean low signal voltage and take care of any signal modifications you might want to make to the signal (music) BEFORE the signal goes to the amplifier.
Pre-amp signal is usually LOW, it was created to be low so there is less distortion at this stage. Home pre-amps usually operate with about 1 to 1.5 volts of output, the idea was to keep the voltage down as low as possible to keep the distortion down as low as possible in the pre-amp stage and then after the signal leaves the pre-amp we let the amplifier do what it does best.

In car audio we have used this very low level for years with pretty good track record. But in many cases in car systems there might be a little noise. Some of the car stereo manufacturers have stepped up the output voltage of their headunits in an attempt to help us have a noise free system.

Installers have always found that certain types of noises in a car system can be diminished by turning down the amplifier gain controls. But far too often the customer gets his system fairly noise free but with no improvement!! The system just may not play loud like it should if the gain controls are turned down too far. Turn the headunit all the way up and it still wont get loud. This is where the manufacturers come in with the higher level headunits! Now you can turn them higher, even when your gains are very low (and hopefully any bad noises are also very low)...

Some old fashioned find this added amplification (and distortion) on the headunits appalling. But most of us cant really hear the added distortion and find it much better than the noise !!!

Some rookies find the added headunit voltage an advantage cause now they think their amp will play louder! NOT TRUE! The amp will still have its maximum output power and it will not change in most cases of the amps max drive can be achieved. Many rookies compare a 1or 2 volt headunit with a 4 to 8 volt headunit and they only notice that with the higher voltage the system gets loud at 10 (on the volume scale) and you used to have to turn it up to 30..!! Some rookies are fooling themselves into thinking this is GOOD! This is better!! But it may not be.

Ideally, a system has a good swing to the volume control... Too much signal voltage into the amp the system will get loud too soon on the volume swing. Not enough signal voltage to the amp and the system volume control can go all the way up and not get loud like you might like it. Setting the amp gain controls correctly will give you this proper swing!

But I still hear them say, "WOW, I got a 5 volt headunit!, it sure plays louder!, its worth the money!"
I just shake my head in amazement...

Head unit power!
Car Stereo head unit power is VERY deceiving! Head units all have HUGE power ratings on the Boxes or right on the front of the units! The highest head unit power I have ever actually tested was 13 watts (at a half way decent THD)… So even if the head unit says 35Watts or 40 watts per channel on it don’t EVER expect for it to REALLY BE more than 15! It is just not possible.

The amplifier can generate greater power per channel than the car head unit. Why can't a head unit generate this kind of power??? The transformer converts the 12 volts from the car battery into a much higher voltage (in this case +36 volts and -36volts)? Since the car head unit doesn't have a transformer to boost the voltage (not enough room in it) the head unit can only limp along trying to make a lot of power with the measly 12 volts from your car. Most high power head units use a bridged output (also called floating ground or push pull), head units use an IC chip that makes both speaker wires to each speaker work together with one pushing while the other pulls (so to speak) just like a real amplifier does when you bridge it. But unlike a real amplifier, most car head units cannot be un bridged. But even still, having no transformer in the head unit limits it severely and your output will be around 12 to 13 watts pr speaker. Don't fall for the high power LIES.

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